I triumphantly stalk a fridge magnet in the bookstore, but I am quite dismayed that a Faroe Islands sheep glossary of the 300 color combinations already exists. It’s even laminated for outdoor use. I’m devastated and need a drink. The Irish Bar is full of football fans, so I ask some young people on the street where three ladies like us might go – to which the answer is a puzzled ‘nowhere’.

We decide to buy sparkling, but the supermarket is absolute. “There is a store that sells alcohol,” reassures us the assistant. “But it’s closed – I mean it’s Saturday afternoon!”

We return to our hotel, and room service obligingly brings us a bucket of ice for our box of rosé. We are increasing Spotify and going a little crazy. The sun is coming out.

At 2 a.m., I go out the window and dance barefoot in my dressing gown on the grass roof. That’s crazy. It’s surreal. And yet, in these remote and enchanted islands, it makes perfect sense, and I can’t help but wish we stayed longer – kayaking in the ocean, snorkeling, horseback riding, “fish and cook”, do outdoor yoga and viking trekking – even if it sounds like hell’s hen party.

The essentials

How to do

62 ° N car hire from 1300 DKK (£ 150) per day (62n.fo). Hotel Foroyar offers double rooms from DKK 1,300 (£ 150) per night (hotelforoyar.fo). Guided hikes from 500 DKK (£ 58) (guidetofaroeislands.fo). Heimablidni is available on most islands starting at DKK 330 (£ 38) per person (eatlocal.fo). Koks tasting menu costs DKK 1,900 (£ 219) or DKK 1,400 (£ 162), including champagne and wine pairing (koks.fo). Mykines Boat Tour costs DKK 795 (£ 92) per person (guidetofaroeislands.fo).

Getting There

Fly from Heathrow to Copenhagen with British Airways from 164 € one way (britishairways.com), then to the Faroe Islands with Atlantic Airways, which operates a service from Copenhagen starting at DKK 1,185 (£ 137) each way (atlanticairways.com). If you prefer a direct flight, KLM offers flights from Edinburgh to the Faroe Islands from £ 188 one way (klm.fr).

The rules

Those traveling from Scotland must self-quarantine for 10 days upon arrival in the Faroe Islands, although fully vaccinated travelers from England are exempt if they have passed through Scotland in transit (this is i.e. if they traveled from England to fly directly from Edinburgh). All visitors must be tested on arrival at the airport (cost £ 36) and must self-isolate until they have received the result (usually within half a day), with a follow-up test to be carried out on the fourth day of their stay (free in the hospital). Unvaccinated travelers can only enter for a valid reason, detailed in en.coronasmitte.dk/rules-and-regulations/entry-in-denemark. For the most up-to-date advice, visit corona.fo.